I’m often asked what my earwires are made of, so I thought that I would explain here starting with gold earrings. With the exception of my stud earrings, I handmake all of my own earwires with gold-filled metal. Oftentimes when I explain this to customers, they don’t know what that means and they think that I am referring to gold-plated metal. There is a big difference between gold-filled and gold-plated.
Solid gold is completely made of gold and the karats signify the ratio of pure gold to a combination of copper, silver, and zinc. 14k gold is about 60% pure gold. This is the kind of metal that you see used in fine jewelry and is generally hypoallergenic. It will not change color or tarnish. Because this uses a high amount of pure gold, it is very pricey based on the gold market.
Gold-filled metal is made with a very thick layer of pure gold over a base metal such as copper or brass. The entire metal piece is usually about 2.5% pure gold, which is much less than a solid gold piece, so it is a more affordable alternative. The great thing about this is that because the layer of gold is so thick, the metal is still hypoallergenic and it will not tarnish or change color. The gold layer will not come off of the piece in regular use.
Gold-plated metal consists of non-precious metal that is coated with a very thin layer of gold. Oftentimes, the non-precious metal is either brass, copper, or scrap metal. These pieces are very affordable because they use a very tiny percentage of pure gold. Because the layer of gold is so thin, it often comes off or the piece oxidizes or corrodes quickly.
So why is this important to know? First of all, if you want your jewelry pieces to last, you don’t want to buy gold-plated because the gold will come off or corrode eventually. One thing that I have noticed is that gold-plated jewelry often gives off a very distinct, metallic smell when the plating is coming off and exposing the base metal underneath. Many people are allergic to base metals, so these can cause rashes, infections, and can even turn your skin green! If you are looking for a statement piece that you are planning on wearing only once, gold-plated jewelry is a possible option.
Unless you are able to spend a large amount of money on jewelry, gold-filled is the best alternative to solid gold. One thing I do want to emphasize is that because of the difference in the amount of pure gold that is used to make it, we can expect that gold-filled jewelry would cost more than those that are gold-plated. I actually had a shopper tell me once that $30 for a pair of my earrings was too expensive since she could go to a big box store and purchase a piece for less than $5. I had to explain to her that the metal that I use is a very different quality from the cheap ones that she would find at such a store, but she didn’t believe me. I saw her again several months later and she explained that I was right! The earrings that she purchased from the store quickly corroded when the plating came off. This is especially bad when it’s something that you put into your ears because it often leads to infections, which is exactly what happened with her.
When you are purchasing jewelry, it’s really important to understand what materials are being used since it comes into constant contact with your skin. You also want to make sure that you are getting the best value for your money, so if you are considering a piece of jewelry that seems like a great bargain, you should understand that there is usually a reason why it is so cheap. You could choose to buy a $5 pair of plated earrings, but know that you will most likely have to throw them away after wearing them just a few times. If you would rather have jewelry that lasts, it is definitely worth it to spend a bit more for higher quality metals.
